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Awake at the Whisk

Tuesday, June 15, 2010

 

Grandma Betty’s Famous Rhubarb Pinwheels


Do you have that one family recipe that you guard with your life? The one that everyone begs you for, but you’re just not willing to give up? Well, this is one such family recipe of mine. My mom made it, my grandma made it, and my great-grandma made it. In fact, this is the recipe that best defines my kitchen memories. I almost named my blog after this recipe. It means that much to me.
This recipe was passed on to me when I first left home. Grandma wrote it on a slip of scrap paper and mailed it to me while I was living in Denmark as an exchange student. I made it for my host families, who immediately begged me for the recipe. It’s a one-of-a kind. It’s the best rhubarb recipe there is, using almost five cups of chopped rhubarb. It has everything a great dessert needs: it’s served warm; it’s covered in a rich sauce; the pinwheel dough is moist and comforting; and it pairs wonderfully with vanilla ice cream. It's tangy, sweet, and like the vegetable that gives it its name, utterly unique.

If I gave you the recipe as my grandma gave it to me, I doubt you’d have much luck. The instructions reflect the hands-on learning that’s associated with a family recipe. For example, she lists all the pinwheel ingredients, and the directions simply state, “Mix in order given. This is the dough.” Yet, I had to call home to ask whether the butter was cut in like scone batter, or blended like cookie batter.

Of course, like everything I do, I have altered her recipe ever so subtly to provide a slightly healthier version of this luscious dessert. I have decreased the amount of sugar, added some extra spice, and added wheat flour. The wheat flour makes a slightly chewier pinwheel, but I think only Grandma will notice.

Lucky, lucky, lucky you! I am not only sharing our family’s most treasured recipe with you, but I have also rewritten it so that you will understand the instructions clearly. When you make this, I only ask that you give my grandma credit!

Grandma Betty’s Famous Rhubarb Pinwheels
4 cups water
3 cups organic sugar
1 cup diced rhubarb (1/2-inch pieces)
1 cup all-purpose flour
1 cup whole wheat flour
2 Tablespoons organic sugar
3 teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon salt
2 teaspoons ground cinnamon
2 teaspoons ground ginger
½ cup cold butter
1 scant cup buttermilk
3 ½ cups diced rhubarb (½-inch pieces)
1/3 scant cup sugar
1 teaspoon each ground cinnamon and ginger

Farmers' Market Fare: whole wheat flour, butter
Fresh from My Garden: rhubarb
Local California Ingredients: buttermilk
Non-local Supermarket Ingredients: sugar, all-purpose flour, baking powder, salt, cinnamon, ginger

Preheat oven to 450 degrees.

In a medium saucepan, combine water, 3 cups sugar, and 1 cup diced rhubarb. Bring to a rolling boil over medium heat. Then remove from heat and set aside.

In a large mixing bowl, combine flours, 2 Tablespoons sugar, baking powder, salt, cinnamon, and ginger. Cut in the cold butter with a pastry cutter until it forms a coarse crumb. (I like to grate the butter with my cheese grater—it quickens the job.) Add most of the buttermilk—depending on the humidity, you may not need all of it. Mix until a solid dough ball has formed. Let rest, covered, for about 10 minutes.

On a clean, floured surface, roll the dough into a long oblong, about 19 inches in length and 6 ½ inches wide. Cover the surface of the dough with the remaining 3 ½ cups diced rhubarb. Sprinkle the rhubarb with 1/3 cup sugar, cinnamon, and ginger. Roll the dough like you would roll cinnamon rolls or a jelly roll, maintaining the 19 inch length. Using a butter knife, slice the roll into 1-inch thick pinwheels. Lay them side-by-side in a 9” X 13” X 2” pan so the cut end is facing up in the shape of a pinwheel. Pour most of the sugar syrup over the pinwheels, making sure to leave 1 inch of space at the top of the dish so the sugar doesn’t boil over into your oven. (Use any remaining syrup over ice cream. It will keep at least a week in your fridge.)

Bake in a 450 degree oven for 30 minutes or until golden brown and bubbly. Serve warm with vanilla ice cream. When your taste buds become giddy with joy, yell, “Thanks, Grandma Betty!”

Makes about 16-19 pinwheels.

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Wednesday, June 17, 2009

 

Livin’ Locavore in Illinois




I grew up in the rural Midwest. Back there, eating food grown in your garden isn’t a movement. It’s just what people do.

In fact, until I left home and was thrust into a world of readily-available fast food, I totally took this lifestyle for granted.

On a recent visit home, I got to relive those glory days: breakfasts of locally grown poached eggs that my dad got from a farmer friend. Plus, wild morel mushrooms sautéed in butter—mushrooms hunted from our own back yard and supplemented by another farmer friend. Plus, (yes, there’s more!) warm rhubarb muffins made with rhubarb picked from the giant patch in the yard.

Other local fare included fresh farm curd cheese from a local dairy where Mom and I got to pet the baby Jersey calves that had just been born. After purchasing more local cheese right on the farm, we drove to the local microbrewery for some handcrafted beers served with an order of fried curd cheese from the same local dairy we just visited.

I was in hog heaven! We even made an attempt to visit a nearby winery, but alas, they were closed by the time we arrived.

Remember: all this fabulous wine and cheese tasting was not taking place in Napa. It was taking place in the heart of Illinois.

Yet, visiting a local dairy and buying their cheese on-site wasn’t always possible. The Ropp family’s store hasn’t been open long. In fact, when they first approached the County to propose their business plan, they were voted down 9 to 0! The good folks on the County Board said they didn’t want every farmer to start doing what the Ropps were suggesting: selling their food right at their farm. Preposterous!

Thankfully, the Ropps wouldn’t take no for an answer. They continued to petition until they were successfully able to open their farm-based cheese shop under a new, “agri-tourism” code. Yet, the privilege comes with a caveat: they may sell any items grown on a local farm, but they may not sell “groceries.”

Funny, but the way I was raised, “groceries” were the same as the food growing on farms.

Sadly, that is not the case anymore. The majority of the items found in a grocery store really aren’t food at all. Mostly, they’re chemicals.

But I digress. My story is about eating locally in Illinois. The Ropp family is now welcome to sell farm items at their lovely farm shop. Their store carries candles made from goat milk, lip balm made from bee wax, and this summer, they’ll have fresh produce from area farmers.

I can’t wait to go back to Illinois again next year! Who says the Midwest isn’t paradise?!

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