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Awake at the Whisk

Sunday, November 14, 2010

 

Manny’s Pizza: Community Landmark Lost in Fire

Eight fire crews battle flames today at Manny's Pizza.
Photo by Linda Yenney

Early this morning, a 36-year-old tradition in my home town of Savanna, Illinois was gutted by fire. Beloved Manny’s Pizza, a Main Street focal point in this small town along the Mississippi River, was consumed by flames as firefighters from eight stations across rural Illinois and Iowa battled the tragic fire.

Savanna, Illinois is no typical small town (population 3,188). In a state where the median household income is $56,235 and where 10.7% of residents live below the poverty level, Savanna’s median income is $32,262 and almost 17% of the population lives below the poverty line.  The nearest city with a population over 50,000 is a full 40 minutes away. There are four grocery stores and 11 full-service restaurants in the entire county. This is a town where people rely on one another.

Savanna is also a fairly crime-free and trusting community where people leave their houses and car doors unlocked. If you get into trouble or do something good, you can be sure that everyone will know about it by the next day. The picturesque town is nestled in the hills behind towering bluffs that flank the wide and majestic Mississippi River. When I grew up there, extracurricular activities included boat trips and water skiing on the river, hiking in the tree-filled forests of the Mississippi Palisades State Park, reading books borrowed from the public library (where my mom worked), attending high school sports events, and eating Manny’s Pizza.

Suffice it to say, like the town itself, Manny’s Pizza is not your run-of-the-mill pizza joint. A visit there was always about far more than eating (although that was important, too). Manny’s was where the community gathered—for nearly four decades running until this morning’s terrible blaze. Birthdays, weddings, basketball game victories, tracks records, good report card grades, and the homecomings of former Savanna residents were all celebrated here.

A firefighter rescues historic memorabilia.
Photo by Lucas DeSpain
When most children grow up and return home, they might return to the houses and the families of their youth. In Savanna, we also returned to Manny’s. No visit home was complete without it. And like Cheers, it was a place where everybody knew your name. Whether you had been gone for 2 years or 10, someone dining or enjoying a beer at Manny’s was sure to recognize you and say hello.

Manny’s was also the place the community came together in times of tragedy. This past spring, my heart and joy, my fairy god sister, Rachel, passed away. The night of her wake, Manny’s Pizza was the place where the community informally assembled. Former Savanna folks traveled from California, Colorado, Chicago, and the like to drink to Rachel’s memory and comfort our loss with the familiar taste of our hometown pizza. In pictures framed on the walls, Rachel smiled down at us, wearing her volleyball uniform and posing with her high school team. Old school uniforms hung on the walls. Manny’s held Rachel’s—and Savanna’s—history like a grandmother proudly displays her family memorabilia.

Home for a visit, I enjoy the Manny's Pizza ritual with
my dad and his wife.
And of course, Manny’s pizza was without competition (and still is—they thankfully have a few other locations in the county now serving their pizza. Although none have the history or the memories of the Savanna location). An entire large cheese pizza there cost a mere $10. Served on a crisp, wafer-thin crust, the cheese had a way of melding as one with the light layer of sauce, forming a chewy, juicy top that was in perfect texture balance with the crust. I have eaten my fair share of pizzas in cities from Chicago to San Francisco, and I have never found a pie quite like this one. It simply can’t be replicated.

So, this morning when news arrived that Manny’s Pizza was on fire, the Savanna community (scattered as we are across the nation as folks have grown up and moved away from home) sent a flurry of text messages and Facebook posts about the news. This is not the loss of the mere bricks and mortar of a building. We know that buildings can be rebuilt (and according to one news story, owner Manny Castro intends to do just that). This is the loss of a space that contained all our many shared memories.

Hearts go out to the Castro family—owners of this irreplaceable community landmark. 

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Thursday, November 11, 2010

 

Chili Relleno Pizza: A Two-Part Series (Part I: The Story; Part II: The Recipe)

My chili relleno pizza just pulled from the wood oven.

Here’s a great party idea: Prepare lots of individual pizza dough in advance. Invite your friends, and tell them to bring their own pizza toppings. Fire up a wood burning oven, and watch the fun that ensues! For added enjoyment, hold a pizza contest and dole out fabulous prizes to the winners.

A few weekends ago, I attended such a party. It was the highlight of my fall fun! The invitation came to my email with colorful Day of the Dead images. “Mexican pizza contest!” it read. “We’ll provide the dough and the wood burning oven.”

My pulse quickened as I read. I am a self-declared pizza snob. Growing up in Illinois, I know good pizza when I taste it. Deep dish, stuffed, crispy thin crust, or even calzone, I have eaten my share of incredible pies. This promised to be my kind of party!

The element of competition made my pulse race a little faster. I love a good contest! Just so happened that this game would be played on turf where I feel confident: pizza.

When I moved to Sacramento from Illinois 10 years ago, I longed for good pizza. Back then, Sacramento’s pizza scene left something to be desired. Crusts were like cardboard, cheeses like rubber, and sauces underwhelming (at least at the places I could afford). I was shocked. I didn’t know it was possible to make such bad pizza. Even the cheapest places back home made a palatable pie. But time and again, my California pizza experienced failed to meet even the lowest standards of mediocre pizza back home.

So, ten years ago, depressed by the pizza options before me, I did what any god-fearing pizza hound would do: I started making it from scratch. I’ve experimented with many dough recipes over the years, used a zillion different cheese combinations, and made so many different sauces I’ve lost count. I’ve read oodles of books and articles on pizza, adjusting my recipes as I learn more. For the first time, about a year ago, I hit my stride—right in sync with the Sacramento restaurant scene that is now churning out quality pies at places like Hot Italian and Chicago Fire. And with all my years of practice, despite Sacramento’s pizza improvements, my husband now prefers to eat mine.

At last month’s Day of the Dead Mexican pizza contest, I decided to bring out my newest pizza creation: Chili Relleno pizza. I invented it last year when the pablano peppers were ripe in the farmers’ markets and I had a hankering for one of my favorite Mexican dishes—obviously the pizza’s namesake, chili rellenos. I made a few batches of chili rellenos, but I always felt guilty dropping them into oil to fry. I also knew that the massive amount of cheese stuffing was a clogged artery waiting to happen.

I decided to meld two of my favorite foods: pizza with chili rellenos. With this recipe, you get to keep the great taste of the roasted pablano pepper. But you eliminate the deep frying and replace it with a crispy pizza crust (in my case, whole wheat). You can adjust the amount of cheese to a thin layer as opposed to a gooey glob. A healthier chili relleno with all the great flavors wrapped in the perfect pizza package!

In preparation for this pizza party contest, I made a spice-bursting sauce using heirloom tomatoes from my garden, (which could also be made from canned tomato sauce for those without fresh tomatoes this time of year). I bought ripe pablanos at the farmers’ market, roasted, and peeled them. I bought fresh jack cheese (also from the market) and grated it. Everything I needed was local.

I arrived at the party to glorious waves of colorful paper flags in intricate cutouts. The hostess, Cynthia, had clearly labored over the spread of authentic Mexican salsas, fresh juices, homemade tortilla chips, and pumpkin seeds scattered over a salad of green beans and brussel sprouts. And of course, her fresh pizza dough.

The first pizza up to bat was made by Jay, the previous owner of Sacramento’s delicious, but long-gone, Black Cat Café (RIP). He pulled out a creamy, pale, homemade cilantro pesto, cooked squash, and bags of fresh pork and cheese purchased at a Latin deli. The finished pizza evoked all the colors of fall. The soft squash and chewy crust melted away with a clean cilantro finish.

I had to follow that?! Gulp. Perhaps I don’t know pizza as well as I thought.

I turned to check on the next pizza in the line-up. The dough was covered with a sticky cream sauce that oozed over the edges of the crust. Experienced wood-fire bakers immediately sprung into action, attempting to rescue the gluey mess, rapidly scooping sauce away before it soaked the crust and caused irreparable damage. A pizza that enters one of these ovens must not be moist, because it has to slide on and off a pizza peel, and once inside the oven, inch across the surface as it’s maneuvered closer to or farther from hot flames.

Perhaps I was still in this competition after all.

Pizza after pizza went into the hot oven and emerged bubbling lusciously. One had smoked, line-caught trout, another had a beef chili sauce. Every idea was original.

Presenting my chili relleno pizza to the judges.
As my own chili relleno pizza emerged from the glowing oven, I heard “oohs” and “ahs” whispered on the lips of party guests. I felt eyes following as I edged narrowly between guests, holding my precious pie firmly on the end of the pizza peel and turning precariously to present it to the judges.

“Don’t drop it! Don’t drop it!” I whispered to myself. If any one of the guests whirled around unexpectedly, they might send my pretty pizza flying.

I made it safely to the judging table. I proudly presented my creation and gave a pitch about all its local glories, the origin of the idea, and the health benefits. Then I stepped back. I watched as they sliced my baby into tiny pieces. Eager hands reached in. In the blink of an eye, the pie reduced to mere crumbs.

I looked around the room. A friend and woman I look up to for her culinary dynamism, Peg, took a bite. I saw her eyes close. She “mmm’d”! Another of my favorite food friends, Elise, repeated Peg’s utterance three times in a row: “Mmmm. Mmmm. Mmmm!”

“This is good!” they both told me. I did a happy jump. I no longer cared if I won the contest. Two of the best cooks in the room liked my pizza! They asked if I was going to post the recipe. They made me feel like a pizza queen!

At the end of the night, I took home a tie for third with the line-caught trout pizza maker. Black Cat Café guy came in first with his cilantro pesto creativeness. 

My prize: two rich, dense, luscious, smoothly spiced panforte homemade by our hostess, who I am told, makes the best panforte around. I’d trade pizza for that panforte any day. Ah, sweet victory!

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Tuesday, January 26, 2010

 

Hot Italian Slice Review


Check out my Yelp review of Hot Italian's pear, gorgonzola, honey pizza. YUM!

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Wednesday, December 3, 2008

 

Life Without Socks

I found this tale in the archives of my computer. This was written last Thanksgiving, but never posted. A year later, pizza memories still warm my heart.

The Midwest has a bad rap for bland, meat-heavy cuisine. Unfairly so. After all, Chicago is the hometown of deep dish pizza, and the whole state of Illinois follows suit. A lot has changed in the six years since I moved away to the avocado-covered lanes of California. Now, back for a visit, I experience culinary joys that make me proud to claim my gastronomical Midwestern roots.

On the first day of my short visit, I return to my Alma Mater, University of Illinois, in Urbana-Champaign. That’s also where I met my husband. The two of us, along with my mom and step-dad (also an alum), went back for memory’s sake. Our tour consists of a walk around the campus Quad, noting the ageless beauty of the trees and stately buildings. The crisp fall air and honey-colored leaves look just as they did six years ago. My husband and I are returned to a time when marriage was a phantom notion reserved for the likes of old folks like our parents.

We are thankful for another unchanged landmark from our past, which still stands majestically as we approach: Jupiter, our favorite pub.

The impressive brick structure rises from the pavement with a brotherly air. Its glass storefront blinks whimsically with lights that read “Leinenkugel” and “Sierra Nevada,” calling us into the warmth. The long stretch of wooden bar and high stools beckons, as from days of yore. The step up to the counter, one swift leap, is rhythmic to my body as I order the usual: a large pizza with pesto sauce, ½ smoked salmon, and four pints of cold quenching ale.

The pizzas arrive like discs from heaven, glistening from melted cheese atop silver pans the size of a sidewalk square. That familiar pizza aroma immediately tickles our senses: warmth, home, tomato sauce, sticky, sweet and chewy. I grab a tiny square, and smother it in soft flakes of red heat and shaved, salty parmesan. The warmth meets the tip of my nose as the piece flies from plate to teeth. As my bite sinks into layers of gooey cheese, moist spinach, tangy feta and mouth-watering sun-dried tomatoes, the crust parts sharply and splits—crisp, light, and crusty. The flavors dance around my mouth as I chew, one by one moving across my tongue to reintroduce themselves, delicate and rich at the same time. I crave another. And another. And another.

Nowhere on earth do they make such wonderful pizza. Rich in flavors, filling your senses like a blanket wrapped around your shoulders on a brisk night curled up in bed reading. Nothing is more comforting, beckoning the feelings of love and friendship. Pizza is the food I associate most with good company. Growing up, pizza night meant a special occasion like a birthday, an A on a report card, or friends in town visiting.

As we eat, my husband and I reminisce our courting days eight years earlier, where many a date were spent at Jupiter eating this very pizza.

Then, shockingly, my mom breaks through my memories. “I remember my first pizza. It came from a Chef Boyardee box.”

My mouth stops chewing as my jaw falls open. “What?!” I cannot imagine what sort of mediocre first experience this could possibly have been.

“Oh yeah,” agrees my step dad. “Mine, too. I must have been twelve years old.”

“Yeah, I think that’s about how old I was,” says my mother. “The first time I had pizza in a restaurant would have been in college—Mabe's.” She touts the name of her own Alma Mater pizza joint in Decorah, Iowa.

“Me too,” says my step dad. “We ate Chef Boyardee until I went to college and found it in the bars.”

I pop another piece of pizza in my mouth, reveling in the chewy soft bites. I cannot conceive of the world before this standard dish. To me, that would be like life without beer or socks.

An hour later, our bellies pleasantly stuffed to exploding, we pay our tab and swallow the last drops of our beer (now warm). I breathe in deeply—satisfaction from a meal so comforting. We have walked down the halls of memory lane today. I’m proud to have grown up in a world filled with pizza made exquisitely from fresh ingredients by the local Mom & Pop shop, not a prepared mix. I could have grown up in another era—a time when my favorite dish might only have been a twinkle in a mass-producer’s eye.

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Monday, November 24, 2008

 

Eating Seattle

I hate eating out. When I travel, dining out is always a gamble. Often, I end up settling for artery-clogging fare that I would never considering cooking for myself at home. Such indulgences are fine as a rare treat enjoyed sporadically throughout the year. But when I travel, and good food is hard to find, I end up feeling like I’ve gathered rocks in my gut by the end of the week.

Not so in Seattle! Good food is always easy to find here.

Portage Bay Café
“Grains”—there is an entire section of the menu dedicated to this king-of-the-food-pyramid. Even though the USDA recommends we consume tons of grains in our daily diets, they are often hard to find on breakfast menus, save for the bland, goopy oatmeal served at typical diners. (In fact, I have often had to settle for this. Once, I even paid a whopping $7 for a bowl of the cold, paper-machete-like stuff.)

You can imagine my delight upon discovering multiple varieties of porridge at the Portage Bay Café: chai spiced, fruit-studded, and nut-filled. My stomach growled with anticipation!

Other menu items included hearty grain flap jacks in every variety—including one for vegans. These all came with access to their topping bar, complete with fresh berries and fruits.

The first-rate menu also contained smoked salmon omelets, breakfast scrambles served up with veggies, and oodles of other enticing dishes. White bread was nowhere to be found—only wheat toast prevailed. And every table came adorned not with tiny packets of fruit and corn syrup wrapped in plastic. Instead, we enjoyed heaping containers of homemade preserves with chunks of fruit.

Our party of six waited over an hour to be seated, but some things are well worth the wait. Portage Bay Café is one of them.

Piroshky Piroshky
Speaking of waiting… don’t expect good food to come easy in Seattle. Piroshky Piroshky is no exception. You can smell the fresh flavors around the block as they lure you closer and closer to their source. There’s an air of sweet, spice, and haunting that plays tricks with your nose. But when you find the shop, there’s no denying you’ve come upon something special.

The street-side display case reveals dozens of pillowy pastries, each filled with a different treat. From potato to cardamom, you’ll have a hard time selecting just one. I’ve tried my share over a series of trips to Seattle, and I loved each one in its own special way.

The potato and onion warms the belly and satisfies all needs for pure comfort and savory bliss. The cinnamon, cardamom and raisin twist causes you to lick, lick, lick until every last bit of spice and sweet are removed from your fingers. The rhubarb surprises your mouth with its array of experiences—from the tart of the fruit, to the sweet of the custard-like filling, to the crunch of the sugar topping. And all are surrounded by a golden melting, wispy, buttery dough.

Hale’s Ales
Come hungry!—and thirsty. After an eight-hour hike, I was ready for some serious food. As I ordered a red ale, nachos popped off the menu. Minutes later, a plate of gooey, cheesy tortilla chips piled high with olives and jalapenos appeared along with our beers. The amber ale was smooth and rich with flavor while quenching my thirst. The nachos were pure salt, crunch, and chewy cheese—just like I like them. Slathered in hot sauce, chased by the freshest of ales, this was the perfect post-hike snack.

The most difficult part of the night was not my eight-hour hike. Indeed, it was selecting from the fulfilling menu. Eggplant lasagna, enchiladas, portabella mushroom burgers, classic three-cheese grilled cheese sandwiches, and pizzas studded the menu. This was bar food at its best, yet with the welcome twist of multiple options for vegetarians, including veggie chili.

Always in search of the best pie, I ordered their veggie pesto pizza. It arrived piled high with roasted bell peppers, olives, onion, and tomato atop a gooey cheese and salty, rich pesto sauce. The crust was cracker-crisp—my favorite! Every bite was the perfect combination of chewy cheese, crunchy crust, and tangy vegetables. We left, bellies full (but not sickeningly bursting), and taste buds deeply satisfied.

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Friday, August 1, 2008

 

Garden Pizza



This pizza was created by my garden. I walked out, checked the plants, picked what was ripe, and started to cook. It’s inspiring to let the garden-fresh ingredients lead the way. As I follow, I am always delighted with the results. This recipe is rustic. I don’t really measure ingredients when I’m making pizza—I just throw together whatever looks good. It’s pizza. You know what you like. Just go for it until it feels right!

Ingredients:
One eggplant, sliced about ½” thick
One zucchini, sliced about 1/2” thick
Salt & pepper to taste
One whole wheat pizza dough (I get mine at Trader Joe’s), cut in half
Ranch salad dressing, fat free
Fennel sprigs
One whole bulb roasted garlic (at least—you might want two)
¼ cup sun dried tomatoes, diced
Parmesan cheese (just enough to cover the pizza sparsely—this will allow it to get nice and bubbly like real Italian pizzas)
1 tablespoon blue cheese crumbles (too much, and it overpowers your pizza)
Red pepper flakes to taste
Peperoncini peppers, diced
Basil, roughly torn or cut in julienne

Preheat oven to 500 degrees.

Lay the eggplant and zucchini in a single layer on a lightly greased baking sheet. Sprinkle lightly with salt and pepper. Roast in the oven for about 5 minutes. Remove from oven and allow to cool.

Roll out the pizza dough for one pizza crust. (I like my pizza thin and crispy, so one package of dough will yield two crusts for me.) Place it on a lightly greased baking pan (I use the metal kind with holes in the bottom that allow the heat to really crisp the bottom and top). Bake in the oven for about 6-8 minutes, or until crisp and beginning to brown. Remove from oven.

Spread enough Ranch dressing on the crust to lightly cover the surface. Cut the sprigs of fennel onto the dressing. Next, dot the entire surface with the roasted garlic and the sun dried tomatoes. Sprinkle the parmesan cheese over this, followed by the blue cheese. Arrange the roasted eggplant and zucchini on top of the cheese. Finally, sprinkle red pepper flakes over the entire pie. Place it in the oven for 8 minutes, or until the cheese is bubbly and golden.

Allow the pizza to cool for at least 10 minutes. Add the peperoncini peppers and top with the basil. Serve and enjoy!
(Apologies for the yellowish tint to my photo. Dang those flourescent lightbulbs!)

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