Just six months ago, Lounge on 20 was a mere twinkle in the eye of owner Ali Mackani. Working at warp speed, the restaurant emerged from concept to reality, opening officially in late June. The creative genius behind this upscale addition to the MARRS building bubbles at every level. Mixologists prepare innovative, succulent beverages; the menu boasts nearly 30 kinds of champagne by the glass; and Chef David Boswell, hailing from Napa, provides local, seasonal fare with an elegant sophistication.

Mackani’s passion for combining fine cuisine in a socially-focused lounge setting stems from his background as an engineer at Intel. In that role, Mackani traveled a great deal. Upon returning home to Sacramento, he would yearn for dining experiences reminiscent of those in cities like San Francisco. Rather than wait around for someone to bring the experience to him, Mackani opened 55 Degrees—and now, Lounge ON20. Mackani beams with passion as he describes his vision for the lounge, a zeal that permeates the experience visitors can expect. I certainly experienced it during a recent chef’s tasting with other local food writers. We enjoyed a fun, zestful evening filled with laughter and fine flavors.

Bathed in pure white, the lounge is sprinkled with bright red accents and blond wood backgrounds. Seating is arranged in a variety of living-room styles: large, family dining tables for groups, or intimate, leather lounge chairs and coffee tables for smaller gatherings. Mackani wanted to create an atmosphere that invites the feeling of visiting a friend’s home for a cocktail party.

Yet, I’m guessing your friends can’t cook like Chef David Boswell! The lounge offers its delicious fare in a unique small plate menu: a “taste,” which serves one or two; a “small plate,” which serves about four; or a “platter,” for groups. On our visit, we sampled the house roasted olives, which slid easily from their pits in a glistening oil with a hint of herbs. The Roasted & Salted Marcon Almonds came naked in their whiteness, but sufficiently cloaked in a shade of salt.

We tasted a sparkling Schramsberg rose—a clean, light bubbly whose color and cool fit perfectly on a warm summer’s eve. The Bella Fragola, a cocktail of muddled strawberry, basil and gvori vodka refreshed and amazed simultaneously. With no added sugar, the beverage tasted of pure, sweet summer joy—a cocktail that could as easily been gulped as sipped. Delightful! The Feminine Mystique cocktail was fit to put hair on your chest—a bit heavy on the vodka and missing the pear flavor the menu promised.

The Local Strawberry Asian Pear Salad was served in a single, crisp, red endive leave with a blend of fresh herbs and spices, including chicories—a fresh, yet pleasantly biting dish that also whispered with artisan blue cheese. The Arincini “Fried Risotto” with White Truffle Oil sent our group of food writers (an otherwise sophisticated lot) to licking our plates—literally. We couldn’t help it! The plating gave the appearance that we were being served spaghetti meatballs—and the smell wafting heavily from them made our mouths instantly water with the scent of melted cheese and tomato sauce. Yet, these were no meat balls—these were crisply crusted risotto with a divinely moist, cheesy middle. The taste was reminiscent of hash brown potatoes, because of the starchy, onion-y, comforting flavor. Move over Grandma! Chef David needs room in my heart for this dish!

Next up, a Fennel-Spiced Seared Ahi paired with a lovely Desante Sauv Blanc, California 2006. One sip of this wine sent me immediately back to the Midwestern clover and grass fields of my youth. It paired perfectly with the spicy licorice and bright salt of the tuna, and the subtle sweetness of the heirloom watermelon: all a seasonal charm.

Chef David describes his Pan-Seared Diver Scallop as his personal take on “bacon and eggs.” The sweet seawater scallop sat under a tiny poached quail egg from local, small farmers, served with a parsnip puree created to taste of cream. What a whimsical dish!—full of that “bacon and eggs” flavor, but scaled to the likes of a tea party.

We finished the evening with the mixologists, who were turning out original, inventive concoctions that made my mouth spin. My favorite: Ginger Spice topped with handmade cardamom foam, turning the icy cold beverage into a peppery, five-star chai latte—my new, favorite cocktail. They also served a Sugar Mama, which should bring Carrie Bradshaw running from New York for a taste of this better-than-a-Cosmo pink, tart drink. The lounge also works with small bottlers to provide alcohol not found elsewhere. A straight taste of their vermouth hinted with sweet notes of chocolate, caramel and vanilla—unlike anything imaginable!

All the sophistication and dress-code aside, you shouldn’t fear over-scale pricing. Drinks run between $7-14 (and higher). While small plates start at $3, you could feed yourself a “meal”-size for $9+.

Local. Seasonal. Organic. Delicious.

This restaurant is set up like a little haven in nature. There’s a large tree in the center, the ceilings are literally designed like a greenhouse—high and filled with light—and the background music is soft and almost unnoticeable. The tables are thick, sturdy, woody features; and the décor soft with nature’s essence of greens and earth tones. Very soothing.

Reading the menu draws you into culinary daydreams of the meal that awaits you. Peach and blue cheese flatbread. Coffee pot ranch smoked port sandwich.

Our waiter had tasted all the foods we inquired about, was very attentive, and truly enhanced our experience. He recommended we try the Greenhouse “fries,” which were a combination of Yukon gold potatoes, sweet potatoes, mushrooms, onions and—to our delight—roasted garlic. They came with a creamy, delish dipping sauce of mustard and habanero peppers. It had a little kick, but was not overly peppery or overly mustard-like: a perfect balance. The sweet potatoes were not as good as the other fries—they were a bit too blackened. Otherwise, I really enjoyed this dish.

As an entrée, I ordered the grilled portabella veggie panini with goat cheese. It was served on wonderfully-textured, light whole grain bread. The veggies included at least two types of squash, mushrooms, and roasted red bell peppers—very filling. The goat cheese complimented superbly. It was creamy and tangy, not gritty like some goat cheese can be. This came with a side of quinoa salad consisting of finely diced herbs (I tasted cilantro, mint and parsley) and veggies (cucumber and red bell pepper), mixed with a few dried cranberries. It was summery, light and tasty, though I might have preferred it moistened with a touch of vinaigrette. My friend loved her seafood tacos—moist and fresh.

For dessert, my friend and I split the peach-nectarine gelato. It tasted like peaches and cream—a refreshingly icy version of homemade ice cream teaming with tiny flecks of fruit that appeared like hidden treasure. Like a kid, with each bite, I hoped to find more of these treasure bits bursting with the sweet of seasonal fruit. This is a must-try item.

Their website promises that “95% of all produce is organic and seasonally local, 100% of all dairy is organic and local,” and so on.

I would recommend that you go the whole nine yards and cruise over on your bike, but sadly, this gem is located in the heart of gasoline-guzzling Roseville. I think this contradiction is something Greenhouse will have to overcome in these early days. My only wish is that it was located in bike-friendly midtown Sacramento. Maybe they'll open a branch for us here.

For more specifics on the restaurant, check out my Yelp review.

(Note: the watermelon pictured here has nothing to do with Greenhouse Restaurant. But it's green. And I needed a photo. Isn't it pretty?)