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Awake at the Whisk

Thursday, April 7, 2011

 

Orange Ginger Scones Recipe

I feel so lucky to have my very own orange tree that grows happy, colorful fruit all winter. In the dreariest part of the year, in the midst of a howling rain storm, my husband will go outside every morning and return to the kitchen with a giant basket bursting in the color of summer and sun. Orange!

Orange Ginger Scones Recipe
Orange season is nearing its end, but my tree still offers me dozens of the glorious fruit each day. I've been making tall cups of freshly squeezed orange juice every morning, using the peels to make orange-cello liquor, and finding every creative way to take advantage of their sparkling, sweet flavor.

This weekend, my husband and I enjoyed these bright, orange zested scones that melt in your mouth. Ginger and orange zest offer a zip, while a hint of sugar and an orange juice glaze refresh, the whole flavor rounded with smooth, creamy vanilla. I've added whole wheat flour to make them healthier than the average scone, and enough butter to keep them light as clouds.

These scones are a tribute to my favorite winter fruit. Thank you for bringing such cheer, Orange!

Hot from the oven: orange ginger scones!
Orange Ginger Scones Recipe
1 cup all-purpose flour
1 cup whole wheat flour
3 Tablespoons organic sugar
2 teaspoons baking powder
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 inch cube peeled and grated fresh ginger
Peels from 2 oranges zested
1/2 cup cold butter
1 egg
3/4 cup sour cream
2 Tablespoons buttermilk
2 teaspoons vanilla extract (I used Spice Islands--it's corn syrup-free)

Orange Vanilla Glaze Recipe
1 cup powdered sugar
2-3 Tablespoons orange juice
Peel from 1 orange zested
2 teaspoons vanilla extract

Farmers' Market or Backyard Ingredients: whole wheat flour, oranges, butter, egg
California Local Ingredients: sour cream, buttermilk
Supermarket Fare: all-purpose flour, sugar, powdered sugar, soda, baking powder, salt, ginger, vanilla

Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.

Combine dry ingredients from flours through salt in a large mixing bowl and combine with a whisk. Next, add the ginger and orange zest and stir.

Using a cheese grater, add the cold butter to the dry mixture. Cut into the mixture with a pastry cutter until the mixture resembles course crumbs.

In a medium bowl, combine the egg, sour cream, buttermilk and vanilla. Stir to combine, and then add to the dry mixture. Stir until a soft dough forms.

Using a soup spoon, drop the dough onto the parchment lined baking sheet with about 1 inch in between each scone. Bake in oven for 10-12 minutes or until tops are slightly golden.

Orange Vanilla Glaze Recipe
Remove from oven and use a spatula to transfer scones to a wire rack. While the scones are cooling, make the glaze by combining all the ingredients in a medium bowl. The glaze should be a thin consistency (not thick like frosting). Add more powdered sugar for a thicker glaze. Use a large spoon to add a spoonful of glaze to the top of each scone. Allow the extra to run off.

Serve while warm, and they'll melt in your mouth.

Yield: 12 scones

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Sunday, March 27, 2011

 

Tender: A Cookbook Review

What do you get when you combine fresh farm-grown food, a commitment to supporting that food, and women with passion? You get Tender: Farmers, Cooks, Eaters, a newly-published cookbook alive with stories, full-color photos, and thoughtful recipes that express the joys of eating locally. 

Tender: Farmers, Cooks, Eaters by Tamara Murphy

Tender, written by Tamara Murphy with Marlen Boivin, Jody Ericson Dorow, and Nancy Gellos focuses on Seattle-based farmers’ market fare much like its California counter parts: Amelia Saltsman’s The Santa Monica Farmers’ Market Cookbook and Placer County Real Food by Joanne Neft with Laura Kenny—also by women committed to eating locally.

The book expresses the culinary choices of a chef who is truly awake at the whisk. Murphy writes, “I am grateful to be living in a time when I must pay attention… The [food] choices that we make affect our communities and the planet where we play and live. TENDER is the result of my own growing awareness through the years of how I can meet the challenges of making better choices.”

There’s something about a book that comes to life as the result of a dream, and in the case of Tender, a collective dream. The book reads like the author’s personal kitchen notes with glimpses of the people and farmers who make up her community. Food acts as a foothold to bring this community together.

Tender is more than a cookbook. It’s an experience. It’s the kind of book you can curl up in bed with, or as you’re sharing one of its market-inspired recipes with friends, pass it around the dinner table.

One of the produce-based recipes you'll find in Tender: Roasted Farmers' Market Corn with Herbed Chili Butter

The easy font, the earth-toned and life-like color photos, and the texture of the rustic paper all work together to create a mood that forces you to slow down, linger, and learn. The book isn’t divided into chapters. The seasons in the book blend quietly into one another.

The recipes hold true to farm-fresh fare by using practical techniques that take advantage of the full food item purchased. For instance, there are recipes for roasting whole fish, ducks, and chickens.

Meals like Mediterranean Tomato and Bread Salad use multiple ripe fruits and plenty of garden herbs so the market fare commands center stage in each dish. For instance, Chermoula, a North African pesto, calls for four glorious bunches of fresh herbs.

In Tender, vegetables, herbs, and fruit become sauces, soups, and the stars of the show. While farm-raised meats certainly gain necessary attention, Tender celebrates cauliflower, fennel, grapes, and sage. The simple recipes allow busy people to become active participants in using the bounty of our farmers’ markets—and in this case, specifically those in the Seattle region.

Of course, you don’t have to live in Seattle to benefit from this book. Most of the featured foods can be found at the Sacramento farmers’ markets—and likely at a market in your neck of the woods. Since you don’t need a culinary degree to create these unique and delicious meals, this book is a good fit for anyone who wants to use more farm-grown food in their kitchens. 

Tender: Farmers, Cooks, Eaters
By Tamara Murphy with Marlen Boivin, Jody Ericson Dorow, Nancy Gellos
ShinShinChez LLC, 2010, $40.00, 263 pages

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Wednesday, July 28, 2010

 

Conscious Cooking Reignites Firehouse


Everyone knows The Firehouse Restaurant as a Sacramento icon for its picturesque court yard, abundant wine cellar, and historic charm. Yet, on a recent sit-down with Executive Chef Deneb Williams, I was delighted to learn that The Firehouse is also surprisingly alive and modern. From its menu to food-sourcing practices to a unionized kitchen staff, Firehouse is innovative and inspiring.
First, there’s the menu. Chef Williams has done some traveling in his day, and his global tastes are reflected in a new bill of fare that is bright and playful. The Mahi Mahi Tacos blend the flavors of honey, cumin, cilantro, mango, cucumber, and avocado, and are served as you might find them on the streets of Mexico, rustically wrapped in paper.

Classic Dungeness Crab Cakes come alive with the pop of plump corn, fresh cilantro, and a light, sweet pepper coulis. Another classic, the caprese salad, becomes a modern day display of creativity in Chef Williams’ Heirloom Tomato Napoleon, which appears in a rounded stack looking deceptively like a large, whole tomato.

In fact, most of Williams’ dishes are immaculately displayed, and even more studiously planned months in advance. Churning out three new seasonal menus each year, with the addition of nightly specials and formal occasion dinners, (like Valentine’s Day), Williams will run through 38 different menus and 50 tastings to test them, in a single year.

This is a guy who needs to be fully awake at the whisk! And he is.

Raised in the San Juan Islands near Vancouver, Canada, Williams was brought up on a macrobiotic vegetarian diet. His mother raised goats and had a large garden. Her philosophy sticks with him to this day. He still doesn’t eat much red meat, and when he does, he says he can only eat about four ounces at a time. He shops regularly at Sacramento’s Sunday farmers’ market. He works with seasonal themes, local farmers, and an environmentally strong food philosophy.

“I won’t serve seafood that is overfished,” Williams says firmly. “I try to balance both wild and farm-raised fish. And I get all my Ahi from the big island in Hawaii. It’s only caught using long line, and they don’t harvest shark.”

Williams proceeds to rattle off several websites on sustainable fishing that I should be sure to read. When I ask him how he keeps up with all the information, he doesn’t hesitate, “I’m completely obsessed with what I do!”

He speaks passionately about the farms he has visited in pursuit of the perfect ingredients for The Firehouse menu. He describes his process for sourcing quality ingredients for a menu that must be planned 120 days in advance.

With the oddly cold start to our Sacramento summer, the tardy tomato season sent Williams to Southern California for heirloom tomatoes he would otherwise have purchased locally. This is a quandary that he clearly approaches thoughtfully.

“I have to react quickly,” he says. “I’ve got squash, basil, and onions coming in locally now. I’ll definitely run specials when our local tomatoes are finally ripe.”

Williams trains his chefs to respond quickly, too. He trains them to prepare every item on the menu to meet the dietary needs of Firehouse customers. “We can make anything on the menu vegetarian, vegan, etcetera,” he explains enthusiastically.

He speaks highly of the chefs he works with, all of whom are part of this union restaurant. “I’m only as good as my cooks,” he says with pride. “Most of my cooks could be executive chefs at other restaurants.”

This pride and passion aren’t immediately apparent when you step through the ancient doors of this historic, quiet, reserved restaurant. Yet, somewhere inside the kitchen, hidden from diners’ view, an explosion of creativity and zeal is taking place. If you eat there, rest assured, you will experience it: in your mouth.

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Monday, February 16, 2009

 

Deep Economy: a book review

As the country plunges further into recession, Deep Economy offers a financial solution based on common sense. Written long before the current financial crisis, Bill McKibben’s book casts doubt on our current model of capitalism, a system sustained by the production of everything from food to fuel on a massive scale: a model that benefits some, but leaves many behind. Instead, McKibben suggests we take a look closer to home at a financial model benefitting everyone, including our planet.

Chock full of case studies, the book features community organic farms in Cuba, solar energy sharing plans in U.S. neighborhoods, and rabbit micro-businesses in China. Globally, community members are coming together to develop new financial projects that branch out and touch the lives of all affected, while simultaneously protecting our planet. Sure, most folks realize the ecological benefits of eating locally—but who knew it could have financial pay-offs as well?

Deep Economy is not a liberal or a conservative text. Well researched, it draws upon economic studies to poke holes in the current American capitalist logic that suggests “more is better. “

McKibben points out that “The idea that there is a state called happiness, and that we can dependably figure out what it feels like and how to measure it, is extremely subversive. It would allow economists to start thinking about life in far richer terms, allow them to stop asking ‘What did you buy?’ and start asking ‘Is your life good?’…Because if you ask someone ‘Is your life good?’ and count on the answer to mean something, then you’ll be able to move to the real heart of the matter, the question haunting our moment on earth: Is more better?”

McKibben examines the benefits—psychological, financial, and environmental—of being part of a thriving community structure. The book dismisses as flawed our current economic model, which relies heavily on a sense of individualism, a model that the planet physically cannot sustain.

If Barbara Kingsolver’s Animal, Vegetable, Miracle proves that eating locally is good for our planet, and Dr. Daphne Miller’s The Jungle Effect illustrates the health benefits of such a diet, then Bill McKibben’s Deep Economy casts the final, favorable vote by showing the financial benefits of local eating. This book stands up in favor of family, community, quality over quantity, planet sustainability, and richness of life.

As our politicians discuss bailout packages and CEO salaries, perhaps one of them will pick up a copy of Deep Economy. I believe they will find a winning solution in its pages. In the meantime, the book offers a way for all of us to follow its wisdom in our own, simple lives.

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